Colin Marshall talks to longtime <span>Slate </span>wine columnist <span>Michael Steinberger</span>, author of <span>Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine and the End of France</span>.
An ardent culinary Francophile in earlier decades, Steinberger has,
along with much of the rest of the food world, come to realize that a
malaise has fallen upon the cuisine that once led the world in taste,
artistry, experience and sophistication. Steinberger’s book chronicles
the history of French food, the recent developments that have forced it
to face tough competition from countries like Spain and the United
States and the importance of such things as the legality of <span>lait cru</span> cheese, the effects of viticultural subsidies and the fall of the once-almighty Michelin guide.